Sunday, August 10, 2025

Con Dao island and wordless stories

Located off the coast of Vietnam's Southern region, Con Dao archipelago consists of 16 large and small islands, about 185 km from Vung Tau and 230 km from the center of Ho Chi Minh City. Once known as “hell on earth” during the American war, this place is associated with the resilient struggles of Vietnamese soldiers. Today, Con Dao is a unique destination, combining historical depth and pristine beauty, considered a “resort paradise”, attracting a lot of international tourists. Asiatica Travel


Con Dao possesses beautiful pristine beaches with clear water, fine white sand, rich primeval forests and diverse ecosystems. This place was once in the "top 10 most charming islands on the planet" voted by Lonely Planet travel magazine, top 4 most attractive new destinations in the world ranked by Time Out magazine. Visiting in the summer, I had the opportunity to explore the pristine beauty of Con Dao's sea and sky, learn about sea turtle conservation activities and visit historical sites.

Not noisy, not bustling, Con Dao attracts me by its endless wild beauty. Waking up early, I crossed the coastal road to Mui Tau Be - about 8 km from the center of Con Dao - the ideal place to welcome the sunrise.

In the space surrounded by the ocean, the sun like a red coal slowly rose behind the horizon, each ray of sunlight gilded the sparkling sea. Sitting on the cliff, I was immersed in the peaceful scene, silently watching the boats return to shore after a night of fishing, enjoying the rare fresh air.

On the way back, I stopped to explore the trekking route up to Lo Voi Mountain. From the foot of the mountain on Co Ong Street, it takes about 30 - 45 minutes to walk on the paved road to the top. From here, visitors can see the whole view of Con Dao special zone, the blue Con Son Bay and the islands looming offshore.

After breakfast by the sea, I continued my journey to explore Con Dao National Park. Buying tickets at the gate, passing through the cool forest canopy, I stopped by the Duc Me (Mother of God) cave, the heritage Nhoi tree, and then followed the path leading down to Bang beach. Hidden behind the forest, Bang beach appeared with deep blue sea water, clear bottom, clouds and sky reflecting to create sparkling green silk strips. I freely swam among schools of small fish, enjoying the feeling of owning a private beach. Not far away is Dat Tham beach - a beach that was once rated by Independent Magazine (UK) as one of the 10 pristine and environmentally friendly beaches in Southeast Asia. If you are lucky, you will have the opportunity to see some typical creatures here such as white gargoyles, Con Dao black squirrels, long-tailed monkeys...

If you are a photography enthusiast, do not miss the experience of checking in with an airplane at Dam Trau beach - about 15 km from the center of the island. To "hunt" for unique photos, visitors should follow the flight schedule on the application to capture the moment the plane lands close to the sea. This beach is also the most beautiful sunset viewing spot in Con Dao, where the yellow sky gradually melts into the calm ocean.

Arriving in Con Dao in the summer, I decided to spend a whole day and night exploring Hon Bay Canh, learning about the reproduction and conservation of sea turtles. Every year, from April to November, hundreds of mother turtles return to Con Dao National Park to breed, mainly at Hon Bay Canh, Hon Cau and Hon Tai islands.

At night, there was only the sound of waves lapping the shore and the rustling sound of mother turtles crawling up the beach. They dug nests with their hind fins and laid hundreds of opaque white eggs, the size of ping pong balls. Turtles are very sensitive to noise and light, so my group and I had to keep absolutely quiet and observe from a distance as instructed by the rangers.

While the turtles are breeding, rangers take the opportunity to measure their size, attach tags, and record information. After laying eggs, the turtles cover their nests and create a fake hole for camouflage. Turtle conservation is strictly enforced because only 1 in 1,000 baby turtles survive to adulthood.

The sky of Con Dao at night is crystal clear. There is no light pollution, so I can admire the mysterious galaxy with thousands of stars. I lie on the sand, feeling life moving right next to me, quietly but very strongly.

The next morning, I went with the rangers to the beach to release baby turtles back into the ocean. The one-day-old turtles toddled toward the waves, carrying with them the mission of survival. About 20 years later, if they survived, they would return to this very spot to continue their birth cycle, as a silent promise to the ocean.

Before returning to the big island, my group spent time diving, admiring the colorful coral reefs, swimming with the rock herds in the clear water of Hon Bay Canh island.

Back to painful history

Amidst the poetic beauty of Con Dao’s sea and sky, few people would have guessed that this place was once a “hell on earth” for nearly a century. Spending a day visiting the red addresses, I felt like I was going back in time to the war, touching the tragic historical memories of the nation.

Built by the French in 1862, Con Dao prison once held tens of thousands of political prisoners. The prison system spanned famous sections such as Phu Hai, Phu Tuong, Phu Binh, French-style tiger cages and American-style tiger cages. Each place bore the mark of brutal torture, failed escapes and the indomitable will of the Vietnamese soldiers.

Visiting Phu Hai prison - the oldest prison - I looked at the intact vestiges with prison cells, iron chains, dark cells, rice mills... Under the island sunlight, each rusty door, each mossy wall, each small window seemed to tell the story of the harsh prison years. Going deeper into the French tiger cage area - a special detention system consisting of cells with solid iron bars above, including an area without a roof - made me shiver, feeling sorry for what the previous people had gone through.

Historical relics remind me of the value of peace. Visiting Hang Duong Cemetery, I burned incense before the grave of Vo Thi Sau, my heart was silent among the forest of tombstones lined up in straight rows. Each name, each age printed on the stone is a part of history.

The night in Con Dao was strangely quiet. In the dim light of hundreds of candles and half-burning incense, I felt small among the layers of spirits. The trip was not only a journey to discover a beautiful, wild island, but also a touching encounter with history, from which I walked more slowly, became more grateful and loved my country more.

Source: A memorable trip to Con Dao island

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